My two kids, Maya and Leon, are Seattle natives. Many Seattleites feel a special connection to killer whales, especially to the so-called “southern resident” ecotype. The southern residents are an endangered population segment of killer whale. They are so named due to their habit of loitering in the inland waters of Washington and southern British Columbia, where they feed on salmon, especially the chinook salmon.
The southern resident killer whales are in serious decline. Only seventy-three individuals remain, and the prospects for recovery are poor. I wanted Maya and Leon to see these animals before they go extinct. And, of course, I wanted their first encounter with the whales to happen from a kayak, if possible.
The Orca Network non-profit was reporting killer whales from J-pod, one of the three pods of southern residents, off the northern tip of Vashon Island. Grandpa John and I bundled the kids into the car and raced to catch the Vashon Island ferry.
Route map. The boat ramp adjacent to the Vashon Island ferry terminal is too small for most motorboats but perfect for kayaks.
Using our binoculars, Grandpa John and I spotted killer whales at about one mile’s distance while still aboard the ferry. Fellow passengers rushed to see. More and more whales appeared until there were at least eight of them, splashing and blowing at various distances. At one point, the ferry had to halt to allow the whales to pass.
Unfortunately, by the time we disembarked on Vashon Island and launched the kayaks, the whales had reversed course and departed north, toward West Seattle. We had missed encountering them on the water by just half an hour!
Maya suggested we paddle to Wingehaven, scene of Leon’s first-ever kayak-camping trip the previous year. We landed on the beach so the kids could explore the ruins of this former manor, now a local park.
Leon and Maya launching kayak at Vashon Island ferry terminal. The tide was so high we had to launch from the ramp itself instead of the beach.
Grandpa John kayaking past Vashon Island ferry. This old Folbot Yukon had a slow leak that resulted in several liters of water entering Grandpa John’s kayak over the course of the afternoon.
Alex, Maya, and Leon kayaking off Vashon Island. This Long Haul folding kayak weighs 110 pounds (50 kg) unloaded, but it sure makes for a comfortable ride.
Horned grebe, Fauntleroy ferry terminal. The water was so clear I could watch this grebe swimming underwater when it dived.
Leon ascending stairs at Wingehaven Park. At age two, Leon had no interest in being assisted up the steep, concrete stairway.
Maya scooping beach sand at Wingehaven Park. The kids spent hours inventing new games.
Leon clutching paddle at Wingehaven Park. Leon followed Maya in various rock- and stick-throwing games, but he started his own game of pelting his dad with handfuls of grass.
Maya on beach at Wingehaven Park. Both kids delighted in stealing my hat whenever I lay down to close my eyes for even a minute.
This was not the first time the killer whales have bamboozled me. In fact, I’d gone out solo several times in March already, hoping to find them but having no luck. At least the kids were able to see the killer whales during the ferry crossing, so the whales are embedded in their memories. Maya even saw one of the whales’ white eye patches.
We will just have to keep trying for a killer whale encounter by kayak. Even when we miss the whales, we still have a wonderful day.
—Alex Sidles